Publication: La Moda Elegante Ilustrada en el período de entreguerras (1918-1927). Análisis documental
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2018-09-25
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Universidad Complutense de Madrid
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Abstract
Los grandes acontecimientos históricos, el auge del comercio y de la prensa femenina, así como el avance tecnológico e industrial durante el siglo XIX y primer tercio del siglo XX acarrearon grandes cambios en el vestir y en la forma de percibir y consumir la moda, colaborando a su universalización. En España, La Moda Elegante contribuyó a ello publicando ediciones más económicas para llegar a un público más amplio bajo la dirección de Abelardo de Carlos, distribuyendo patrones que permitían confeccionar los modelos que aparecían en ella a aquellas suscriptoras que no podían permitirse comprarlos, alcanzando de esta forma la moda a todas las clases sociales. La proliferación de los escaparates de las tiendas y grandes almacenes que vieron la luz durante esos años ayudaron a dar mayor visibilidad a los cambios en la indumentaria cada temporada. La Moda Elegante en el período de entreguerras (1918-1927) es el objeto de estudio de este trabajo. Durante esa época, España estuvo inmersa en una guerra con Marruecos que aumentó el descontento de la población y que culminó con el golpe de estado del general Miguel Primo de Rivera en 1923, que no conseguirá estabilizar al país ni acabar con su crisis económica y social, a pesar de la neutralidad de nuestro país durante la Gran Guerra. Se ha seleccionado esta revista por ser un referente dentro de las publicaciones especializadas en moda y ser una de las más longevas. Al igual que el resto de cabeceras especializadas tuvo una clara influencia francesa que se vio reflejada tanto en el diseño como en los contenidos, fue testigo y dio testimonio a través de sus páginas de los cambios sociales ocurridos en España y el resto del mundo a través de sus crónicas de sociedad y de moda...
The great historical events, the rise of trade and women’s press, as well as the technological and industrial advances of the 19th century and the first third of 20th century, brought about major changes in dress and in the perception and consumption of fashion. In Spain, La Moda Elegante under the management of Abelardo de Carlos played a role in these changes, publishing less expensive issues to reach a wider public, distributing patterns of the fashion sketches published in the magazine so that readers who could not afford to buy the garments the magazine features could make them for themselves, thus giving all social classes access to fashion. The proliferation of shop display windows and the department stores that emerged in this period helped give greater visibility to each new season’s look. La Moda Elegante in the inter-war period (1918-1927) is the object of study of this research work. During that time Spain was immersed in a war with Morocco that increased the discontent of the population and culminated in General Miguel Primo de Rivera’s 1923 coup d’état, which did not succeed in stabilizing the country or ending its economic and social crisis, despite our country’s neutrality during the World War I. This magazine has been chosen because it was a model for publications specializing in fashion and one of the longest-lived. Like the rest of specialized journals had a clear French influence that was reflected both in design and in the contents, and its pages chronicling of society and fashion are testimony of the social changes in Spain and the rest of the world...
The great historical events, the rise of trade and women’s press, as well as the technological and industrial advances of the 19th century and the first third of 20th century, brought about major changes in dress and in the perception and consumption of fashion. In Spain, La Moda Elegante under the management of Abelardo de Carlos played a role in these changes, publishing less expensive issues to reach a wider public, distributing patterns of the fashion sketches published in the magazine so that readers who could not afford to buy the garments the magazine features could make them for themselves, thus giving all social classes access to fashion. The proliferation of shop display windows and the department stores that emerged in this period helped give greater visibility to each new season’s look. La Moda Elegante in the inter-war period (1918-1927) is the object of study of this research work. During that time Spain was immersed in a war with Morocco that increased the discontent of the population and culminated in General Miguel Primo de Rivera’s 1923 coup d’état, which did not succeed in stabilizing the country or ending its economic and social crisis, despite our country’s neutrality during the World War I. This magazine has been chosen because it was a model for publications specializing in fashion and one of the longest-lived. Like the rest of specialized journals had a clear French influence that was reflected both in design and in the contents, and its pages chronicling of society and fashion are testimony of the social changes in Spain and the rest of the world...
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Tesis de la Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Facultad de Ciencias de la Documentación, leída el 20/10/2017